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Starwheel 25720PT

A playful and highly unconventional watch when it comes to displaying time, this Audemars Piguet Starwheel makes use of a wandering-hours function that demands a second take. With the model having been more commonly produced in yellow gold, this platinum variant stands out for its clean aesthetic and rarity. The way in which the platinum case, white gold guilloché dial and exposed mechanics blend effortlessly into one another makes this our favorite variant of this unconventional design.

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Model: Starwheel Reference: 25720PT Year: Late 1980s/Early 1990s Material: Platinum Dimensions: 36.5mm Watch Movement: Self-Winding Bracelet/Strap: Black Audemars Piguet Strap

The Starwheel displays time via three sapphire disks with printed hours, which rotate on a center pivot, where usually the hour and minute hands are attached. The name of the watch is derived from the star-shaped wheels which connect the sapphire disks to this rotating center ring. The hours on the disks point to the minutes on a 120-degree sector, gliding over them over the course of an hour. The rotating ring turns 360 degrees (one full turn) in 3 hours. While not quite a jump-hour watch, the Starwheel has a satisfying mechanical feature: the sapphire disks jump into position right before sliding over the minutes track.

The dial features endless absorbing details, from the subtle guilloché found on the lower portion of the dial, to the smooth finish of the minute track. The openworked mechanics in the center, which are beautifully hand-finished with angling and polishing, offer a rich interplay of textures. Additionally, the crisp Arabic numerals on the clear sapphire disks give the appearance that they are floating above the dial, further contributing to the whimsical nature of the piece.